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The Ceramics of Teak Hill

The Sunan Gunung Jati mausoleum complex in Cirebon is extraordinary in the sheer quantity and variety of the largely East Asian and European ceramic plates and tiles imbedded in the walls, niches, alcoves, and gates.

A group of people sit on the floor facing an ornate tomb inside a mosque in Cirebon, engaged in prayer or contemplation, with intricate ceramics adorning the sacred space.Ceramics at the tomb complex of Sunan Gunung Jati. All images courtesy of Jaap Otte, photography Poppy Harun unless otherwise noted.

Ceramics embellish the outside walls as well as the exteriors of several pavilions that compose the shrine and cover the inner sanctum. More than decorative features, these ceramics speak to Cirebon’s long and rich history at the nexus of trade routes reaching from Europe to China. 

Ornate white wall with decorative ceramic tiles, including circular and floral patterns and a border featuring blue and white square tiles with pastoral scenes and ships.

Vibrant Accents

The colorful ceramics and tiles are cut into different shapes and are made into patterns that are displayed symmetrically and at regular intervals – such as here on a building built by Sultan Sepuh IX (r. 1845 – 1853) and the tomb of Sunan Gunung Jati. They stand out against the whitewashed surface of the walls, lending the various structures of the complex a sense of visual harmony. 

Ornate white ceiling with decorative ceramic tiles in green, yellow, and orange patterns, arranged in symmetrical geometric and floral designs.

A Long History

Much of the collection consists of Chinese and Japanese blue-and-white porcelain. They are believed to have been gifts from foreign rulers and devotees. The vessels are kept in storage and used throughout the complex.

Large blue-and-white ceramics, a stack of notebooks, a green marble-patterned basin, and a matching pedestal are arranged on a patterned tile floor.

François Valentijn, a Dutch Calvinist minister and naturalist, mentions the creative use of ceramics in the shrine in his Oud en Nieuw Oost-Indiën (Old and New East Indies), published in 1726. As some of the pieces predate the eighteenth century, the tradition must have begun even earlier. In addition, early twentieth-century photographs also document the diverse ceramics, showing how they were historically presented.

A group of people sit on the floor facing a decorated altar inside a the tomb structure at Teak Hill, with ornate wall designs, hanging lamps above, and ceramics adorning the shrine.Pilgrims in front of the tomb of Sunan Gunung Jati. Photograph, c. 1935. Leiden University Libraries, KITLV 89450. 

From Faraway Places

The astonishing variety of ceramic pieces attest to Cirebon’s active long-distance trade with China, Japan, Myanmar, Thailand, and Vietnam, as well as England, Scotland, and the Netherlands between the sixteenth and nineteenth centuries.

A white surface features a central ceramic plate with a red and green floral design, surrounded by smaller blue and white ceramic plates.

The juxtaposition of brilliant and austere colors invigorates the walls and galleries of the structures. For example, this nine-piece serving tray was probably created in the first half of the eighteenth century in Fujian province in southwest China. The tray is known as Sancai, a type of decoration that combines amber, white, and green glazes. Developed in China during the Tang dynasty (618–907), it was revived under the Qing rulers (1644–1912).

Circular dish divided into segments, each with a multicolored dappled pattern in green, yellow, brown, and black, reminiscent of Cirebon ceramics design, set against a white background.

This type of interlocking serving sets is found throughout the complex in a variety of colors and designs. A common export ceramic, they were intended for sweets or condiments and shipped in wooden boxes.

Decorative ceramic tiles from Cirebon and ornate floral patterns are embedded in a white plaster wall, with blue scenic ceramics and circular colorful tile arrangements, reminiscent of Teak Hill artistry.

A Dutch Touch

Hundreds of Dutch delft tiles are found across the complex. Dating from the second half of the seventeenth century to the eighteenth century, they feature small still lifes and landscapes painted in blue. Some of these tin-glazed earthenware tiles also depict biblical stories and fables.

Three blue and white ceramic tiles, featuring pastoral scenes—buildings, windmills, and a person with a hat and cup—are mounted on a weathered wall at Teak Hill.

In their arrangement, it appears the subject matter of the tiles was of less importance, and they may have been valued more for their aesthetic properties and as economic symbols. Sunan Gunung Jati was known for his efforts to resist temporarily the advances of Dutch forces. Eventually, however, Java fell to the Dutch in the early 1600s with the establishment of the powerful Dutch East India Company or VOC (Vereenigde Oost-Indische Compagnie), which competed with other European powers for control over the region.

A section of white plastered wall is decorated with two rows of ceramic tiles, featuring blue and brown scenic and pastoral designs.

Inspired by China

Some ceramics were inspired by Chinese examples but produced elsewhere. This blue-and-white plate depicting a Chinese domestic scene was, in fact, manufactured by Robert Cochran & Co.’s Britannia Pottery company in Glasgow, Scotland in the 1880s.

A decorative ceramic plate with a painted scene in blue and white is surrounded by six smaller plates arranged in a circular pattern on a white wall.

Such transfer-printed ceramics were then exported to Southeast Asia, where they were used as decoration as well as for domestic purposes. They must have been imported in large quantities as this plate is found in numerous places throughout the complex. These areas were likely built or renovated in the late 19th century.

Two images show ornately decorated white walls with ceramics and ceramic plates, tombstones, and a man standing behind a counter with a sign in Indonesian.

Made in England, Intended for Asia

Another group of blue-and-white ceramics was produced in Staffordshire, England. Its design was trademarked in 1853 in London and displays Arabic inscriptions. The three lines in the center of the plate read as follows:

“Allah the one, there is no partner to Him.
Muhammad is the Prophet of Allah
Indeed, you are the Conqueror.”

A white decorative ceramic plate with blue floral patterns and Arabic calligraphy mounted on a white wall.

The smaller inscriptions at the top and bottom of the outside rim reiterates the idea of the oneness and uniqueness of God, stating “there is no god but God.” The names of the first four caliphs (Abu Bakr, Umar, Uthman, and Ali)—the immediate successors to the Prophet Muhammad—also appear on the outer border.

A close-up of a white ceramic plate featuring blue floral patterns and Arabic script inscribed along the rim.

Plates with religious statements are carefully placed to face the tomb of Sunan Gunung Jati on the interior of the entrance, marking the most sacred space within the shrine. These plates were widely exported, and numerous examples are found in Indonesia and India. 

A dark wooden door set in a white wall decorated with wing-shaped designs, circular ceramics plates, and small tile art at the bottom.

Shorter Journeys

Pots and vases are displayed in various parts of the complex. Some of the oldest ones are from other parts of Southeast Asia, like Myanmar or Vietnam. 

A black-and-white photo of several large ornate ceramics with intricate designs featuring delicate floral and vegetal motifs as well as animals and clouds arranged on a tiered display.Ceramics displayed at the Sunan Gunung Jati Complex, photograph, 1938. Leiden University Libraries, OD-13036. 

Large jars are often placed within the galleries of the mausoleum, against the inner structure that surrounds the actual grave. They are plastered to the ground so they cannot be moved, attesting to their importance and precious nature. Other large containers were likely used during festivals and are on display throughout the complex.

A large ceramic jar stands in front of an ornate, patterned white wall with colorful tile accents and carved decorations.

Beauty and Function

While some jars appear to have been solely decorative, others have been transformed for practical use.

A close-up of a weathered stoneware vessel, featuring raised dragon and cloud motifs in relief.

This finely decorated, large stoneware storage jar was made in southern China in the eighteenth or early nineteenth century and now serves as a water basin.

A large, ornate stoneware water vessel with a metal tap sits on a stone surface indoors.

Other jars were also transformed into water basins as seen in this photograph from 1902.

Black and white image of the tomb at Teak Hill, with several stone tombstones several large urns and the ceramic decorated walls in the background. Several urns have water spouts affixed.Ceramics near the tomb of Sunan Gunung Jati. Photograph, c. 1935, Leiden University Libraries, KITLV 89452.

For Saints and Sultans

The practice of imbedding ceramics into surfaces, a tradition that continues to the present, is also found in the ornate walls of the Friday mosque in Cirebon and of other shrines in Java.

An ornate arched gate with intricate white carvings and embedded ceramics opens to a garden path, surrounded by trees and historic buildings.A gate of the Kasepuhan palace in Cirebon, Indonesia. Andi Erik / Shutterstock

They are also visible in the Keraton Kasepuhan, the historic palace of Cirebon sultans, where walls and gates are decorated with dishes and tiles in a fashion similar to the shrine of Sunan Gunung Jati.

Red brick wall with embedded ceramics, and moss growth. Geometric patterns and some vegetation fill the crevices, while grass is visible at the base of the wall.Exterior wall of the Kasepuhan palace in Cirebon. Andi Erik / Alamy Stock Photo

Other vessels, such as large Chinese serving dishes, were used for practical purposes and reserved for banquets. In both secular and religious contexts, the ceramics were and still are signs of prestige, wealth, and power. They also tell the story of vibrant political, commercial, and artistic interactions between Java and the rest of the world.  

Black-and-white photo of six people seated in a row, each holding a large, ornately decorated ceramic plate with intricate designs.Chinese porcelain dishes within the Kasephuhan Palace, Cirebon. Photograph, c. 1905. Leiden University Libraries, KITLV 7597.
This presentation draws from the ongoing research of Jaap Otte.

Cirebon Indonesia